Your first consideration is your Space and tank size. It must be large enough for the creatures you want and provide for their needs, like exercise, yet small enough to fit your home and budget. They can range from 15 l/3.3 gal volume and 30cm/12" in length to 1,500 l/320 gal and more than 300cm/10', but generally range from 90-180cm/3-6' and 100-600 l/22-132 gal in volume.
Those under 100 l/22 gal are called nano tanks and are economically very popular nowadays where energy saving is at the forefront of our minds. Generally the larger the tank the better and easier. Larger volumes of water are more stable and deteriorate less quickly. We are trying to replicate the ocean and reefs, after all, and corals and coral-associated fish don't appreciate rapid change or frequent fluctuations of water parameters.
Tanks should be on sturdy, level surfaces and near to, but not directly above, power points. Your tank should be a thing of beauty, so place it opposite to your favourite seat and away from the TV as they will compete for your attention. Keep out of direct sunlight, as this will cause algae growth, and keep away from draughts and radiators, again to prevent fluctuations in temperature.
Check out our First Wave tank!
Starting a marine tank may seem daunting, but with the right guidance and a little patience, you’ll soon create a thriving, miniature ocean teeming with life. Whether you dream of colorful corals swaying with the current, playful clownfish exploring their new home, or the delicate balance of an underwater ecosystem, this journey begins with the First Wave.
This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step, from setting up and cycling your tank to selecting the right species and maintaining optimal water conditions. You'll also find expert product recommendations, stocking ideas, and troubleshooting tips to help you navigate common beginner challenges.
Why have a marine aquarium?
Lighting
Intensity can also vary on the reef, with powerful rays of light high on the reef and lesser lighting values lower down. A modular system can provide both varying spectrums and intensities by using different power LEDs, and different spectrums and either being focused through a lens or spread over a wide area on an unlensed unit. Use a combination of models with different spectrums and intensities for best effect. High-light-loving corals can be clustered together under intensely powered lensed white light, but in the same tank, low-light-loving corals or corals from deeper water can be placed under blue lighting.
We answer some of your most frequently asked questions about LED lighting
Yes, you can and many marine aquarists start off by adding one LED to test the effects and to add more depth to their lighting. Deep blue 'actinic' LEDs are popular for creating those spectacular dawn/dusk and moonlight effects.
LED is a more expensive form of lighting to get started, so where is my saving?
You will see your savings in running costs - they being typically half that of fluorescent or metal halide - and the fact that you will have to make very few bulb changes. If using halide or fluorescent, these can be as often as every six months. Don't underestimate savings on heat either. A warm tank may need a chiller - a piece of kit that costs a lot to buy and run. A metal halide unit will use significantly more electricity than just its bulb rating of, say, 150 watts. Add a chiller to that and LED may be your cheapest long-term option!
I've been told that LED isn't powerful enough to be used exclusively to light corals?
It has been used exclusively for several years on some tanks in the UK. Now there are thousands of reef tank owners proving that it definitely works and is totally viable. Lighting meters can be used to test the output of LEDs and some models produce as much light as a 250w metal halide.
Filtration
Marine fish produce waste and pollute water yet aren't biologically ready to deal with what they produce. Corals are even more sensitive to pollution and on the reef, fish waste is diluted by water and washed away. Waste in the home aquarium must be filtered away with either regular water changes or advanced filtration systems. Usually, both are employed.
Protein Skimmers
A protein skimmer is a mechanical filtration device that removes protein waste from seawater before it breaks down into harmful ammonia. This is achieved through millions of small air bubbles that attract the protein waste, allowing it to be skimmed off, collected in a cup, and removed. It's not possible to over-skim, so it's advisable to opt for a powerful model that fits the specific make and model of your tank. If you're uncertain, systemized marine tanks often come with a designated compartment for a skimmer and may include a pre-selected model.
Protein skimmers are often used with live rock and powerful water pumps, usually known as the Berlin system - a method for naturally filtering marine tanks that's great for fish and corals.
A few, if any, reef tanks are successful without a protein skimmer but rely on a more frequent water change regime.
Water chemistry
Water chemistry is the cornerstone of a healthy and thriving marine aquarium. Properly managing the chemical parameters of your aquarium water ensures the well-being of your marine life and the overall success of your aquarium. This guide covers the essential aspects of water chemistry that every marine aquarist needs to understand.
Understanding and maintaining proper water chemistry is fundamental to the success of your marine aquarium. Regular monitoring and adjustments ensure a stable and healthy environment for your marine inhabitants, allowing them to thrive. By staying vigilant and proactive in managing water chemistry, you can enjoy the beauty and diversity of your marine aquarium for years to come.
How to make perfect saltwater
Mixing saltwater for your marine tank is easy when you know how and will guarantee some great results. Here’s our step-by-step guide…
1. Buy your salt. The Tropic Marin synthetic sea salt we have used here is perfect for all marine fish and, if you want elevated trace element levels for reef tanks, why not choose Tropic Marin’s Pro Reef? ...
Selecting Livestock
Be fair to your fish!
At all times, you need to consider the well-being of your livestock. Fish need adequate space in which to swim and grow, so may not be recommended for the smallest marine tanks available. These should be stocked instead with tiny shrimp and crabs.
Ask about the history of the fish you want
When asked where stock has come from, the retailer should be open and honest. Marines travel a long way, so the settling-in process must be as quick and stress free as possible.
MAC is a mark of quality - so were the fish imported via a MAC-certified seller? How were they unpacked and rested in the UK?
All TMC fish and inverts are supplied to your retailer with their own identification labels for display on in-store tanks. These confirm the stock has received first-class treatment from reef to retail.
Avoid impulses
Acclimatise too
Set up a reef tank in 12 easy steps
Creating a vibrant and thriving reef tank at home may seem daunting, but it doesn't have to be. With the right guidance, you can set up your own stunning underwater ecosystem in just 12 easy steps. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced aquarist looking to try something new, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know to get started and ensure your reef tank flourishes. Dive in and discover the joy of bringing the beauty of the ocean into your home!
Feed them properly
Reef fish can be broken down into four main groups: planktivores, herbivores, coralivores, and predators. Each plays a crucial role on the reef and in captivity each must be catered for in their own specific way.
Planktivores
These are represented by popular species like Green Chromis and Anthias or wreckfish. Planktivores school in huge numbers on the edge of the reef where ocean currents will bring their food straight to them. These feed on zooplankton - tiny marine creatures that float in the currents - and can be made up of shrimp, krill, fish and coral eggs, and invertebrate larvae like crab and lobster youngsters. Planktivores need to be fed little and often, as in the wild they feed on these tasty morsels all day. These fish are safe to be kept with corals as these are not part of their diet in the wild.
Herbivores
The herbivores are the sheep or cattle of the reef. Constantly grazing algae from rocks before moving to find fresh, green pastures elsewhere, they perform a vital role on the reef as they keep areas free of algae and therefore available for corals.
Popular aquarium herbivores include tangs and other surgeonfish, and rabbitfish, and reefkeepers collect them not only because of their colour and movement but also because they help to keep their aquariums free of algae. Herbivores are generally regarded as reef-safe because they don't eat corals in the wild. However, they must feed little and often, grazing throughout the daylight hours.
Coralivores
Specialised reef-inhabiting coralivores prey on coral polyps. Popular ones include butterflyfish and some filefish, some of them feeding exclusively on corals. These obligate coralivores should not be kept, as few fishkeepers can offer them a daily diet of live corals. Such fish are clearly not reef safe, and your precious corals would quickly be eaten. Coralivores must feed frequently as they would do so in the daytime in the wild.
Predators
Predatory reef fish will feed on other fish, shrimp, and sometimes crabs, lobsters, shellfish, and starfish, depending on species.
These fish are generally intelligent, making them interesting aquarium inhabitants, but they cannot be kept with fish small enough to be on the menu - or any shrimps for that matter. Despite this, predatory fish are often reef-safe in that they won't eat corals, though the reef must also be free of small fish and decorative shrimp and crabs. Predators take large meals, though not all that often, so one every other day is fine for most species. Popular examples of predatory marines include lionfish and groupers.
Give them variety
Frozen foods can be enriched and must, of course, be kept in the freezer. Best thaw the food briefly before feeding.
Live food
These are the best options for fish species that will not accept frozen foods and must take their prey whole. Live foods will consist of large brackish shrimp-like river shrimp, through to artemia and tiny copepods. River shrimp can be bought from specialist aquatic shops, as can copepods and artemia, though the latter can also be hatched and raised by hobbyists. Corals will appreciate a diet of tiny copepods, although frozen is cheaper and more convenient.
Coral food
What you need to know about corals
Corals add a beautiful dimension to a reef tank that freshwater fish set-ups cannot even hope to rival. We explain why these fabulous creatures are truly unique.
With living, growing corals you can decorate your tank and increase its diversity at the same time.
Your fish healthy
Treat your new fish well and avoid disease. As with humans, care and attention goes a long way...
