WHAT’S IN THE BOX

  1. 48l Aquarium tank with built-in filtration system 
  2. Aquarium lid with feeding port
  3. Filtration system lid 
  4. Low voltage DC Reef ready LED
  5. Low voltage DC Return Pump with inlet sponge
  6. Low Voltage DC protein skimmer
  7. Low voltage PSU
  8. Fine pore filter pad
  9. Ceramic bio-ring pack
  10. 2 x Coarse pore filter sponges
  11. Multi-directional outlet
  12. Pipework and fittings
  13. Heater bracket 
    (*Heater sold separately)

Required for installation
(NOT SUPPLIED)

  •  *50W Heater (bracket supplied) 
  • Thermometer
  • Hydrometer or refractometer
  • Water Test kits (See page 20 for more information) Residual Current Device (RCD) with a rated residual operating current not exceeding 30mA
  • Bucket or similar container for preparing your saltwater.
  • 48 litres of saltwater correctly prepared according to the instructions supplied with your chosen synthetic salt, and at the correct temperature. 
  • Measuring jug or similar vessel (for filling the First Wave tank with water).
  • A small cup, flat plate or something similar  (to be used when filling the First Wave tank with water to prevent any substrate from being displaced).

Assembly

KEEP INLETS & OUTLETS CLEAR

To avoid any operating problems, ensure the water inlets and outlets are not obscured by tank decor, substrate or filter media.

STEP 1

Connect the pump to multi-directional water outlet

STEP 2 - Insert filter media

Fine pore filter pad 
removes fine particles and  debris from the water and helps trap any micro bubbles exiting the protein skimmer.

Coarse pore filter sponge provides both biological and mechanical filtration, effectively removing fine particles from the water.

Ceramic bio-rings provide a large surface area and home for beneficial nitrifying bacteria to grow, and providing efficient biological filtration *media bag supplied*

Coarse pore filter sponge to remove any remaining fine particles from the water.

STEP 3 - Install skimmer and heater

  1. Fully open the water outlet adjustment knob before installing the protein skimmer (see image 01). 
  2. Place the protein skimmer in the protein skimmer chamber as shown in the below diagram. Secure the protein skimmer to the back wall of the aquarium using the suckers        provided with the protein skimmer.
  3. Place a heater* in the heater chamber next to the protein skimmer as shown below.  A clip-on heater bracket         is included to allow a submersible heater to be simply located and installed.

STEP 4 - Add sand/substrate and rocks

Carefully pour your selected aquarium substrate into the First Wave tank . 

TMC Cemala substrate or TMC EcoSand is recommended.

Ensure all aquarium décor and substrate is correctly prepared according to the
instructions supplied with them. For example, for best practice, always rinse thoroughly before use to remove any dust or debris.


If you are planning to add aquarium decor e.g. live rock or replica live rock, position these as required. 


You could choose from EcoReef Rock, a more sustainable alternative to real live rock. You can combine various pieces together or buy a EcoReef Centrepice designed for desktop tanks like model 9.

TIPS & NOTES

  • Ensure all aquarium decor is correctly prepared before introducing to the First Wave tank.
  • Please note that, when topping up the tank with new saltwater, the saltwater must always be prepared correctly and according to the instructions supplied with your chosen synthetic salt and any water added to the First Wave tank must be at the correct temperature.
  • The water level in the First Wave tank will change. Ensure that the water level in the tank, the protein skimmer chamber and filtration chamber is always closely monitored. 
  • Livestock should NOT be introduced to the First Wave tank until water parameters have been tested and it is safe to do so. Regularly test the water parameters with reliable test kits and consult your local retailer for further advice if necessary.

STEP 5 - Make & add saltwater

In a clean container, add a professional grade saltwater mix to either filtered drinking water or Reverse Osmosis water.

Make sure to follow the instructions on the package until the salt is fully dissolved. We recommend using Reef Salt, designed to create natural reef conditions, as used in-house at TMC’s world-class facilities.

The prepared saltwater must be at the correct temperature for the First Wave tank  before adding to the tank.

USEFUL TIP: Alternatively, many marine livestock retailers offer pre-mixed saltwater which can be conveniently purchased in store.

Place a small cup, flat plate or something similar on top of the substrate (to prevent any substrate from being displaced) and carefully pour the prepared saltwater. 
Due to various factors such as evaporation, the water level in the First Wave tank will change. Ensure that the water level in the tank, the protein skimmer chamber and filtration chamber is always closely monitored. 

As water evaporates, the salinity level in the tank will also change so ensure that the specific gravity (SG) of the tank is measured using a hydrometer, and the tank is regularly topped up with freshwater or saltwater as necessary to reach the correct specific gravity (SG) and the required water level.

STEP 6 - Connect to power

Once the First Wave tank is full of water and ensuring that the protein skimmer chamber, filtration chamber, the return pump and heater chamber are also full of water, plug in and switch all on.

Once the water return pump is on, water will be drawn into the protein skimmer and filtration chambers via the water inlets and will pass through the filter sponges and will return back into the tank via the water outlet and the multi-directional nozzle.
Make sure all connections are tightly secured and check for leaks.

ENSURE ALL COMPONENTS ARE SECURELY INSTALLED BEFORE OPERATING.

CAUTION: Always leave a drip-loop in all component cables to prevent water running down the cables and reaching the power source.

CAUTION: Always isolate all components from the mains electricity before installing or carrying out any maintenance to the tank.

STEP 7 - Using the LED light

The First Wave features a low-voltage DC Reef-Ready LED light with a natural light cycle function, creating the perfect environment for your marine life. Neatly recessed into the aquarium cover, the sleek LED unit houses 34 LEDs, providing brilliant illumination.

 
For added convenience, the lid includes an integrated feeding port with a removable flap, allowing effortless feeding without disrupting your First Wave’s inhabitants.

IN THE EVENT OF A POWER CUT

If the LED is in Mode 3 – Timing Mode, when power resumes the LED light will switch back on and start the Sunrise to Moonlight cycle from the beginning. Repeat the Mode 3 set-up above to go back to your preferred cycle timing.

Operating the controller

Press the MODE button once
Mode 1: All White LEDs power on full power

Press the MODE button again
Mode 2: Only Blue LEDs power on

Press the MODE button again to enter timing mode
Mode 3: Timing Mode - All White LEDs power on low power and the following sequence begins, creating a natural lighting cycle for your marine aquarium:

Sunrise: LEDs ramp up over approximately 15 minutes
Daylight: LEDs run on full power for approximately 8 hours
Sunset: LEDs ramp down over approximately 15 minutes
Moonlight Blue: LEDs power on for approximately 2 hours and then switch off.

Note:  The natural lighting cycle will start from the moment you enter Mode 3. If you want the Sunrise sequence to begin at 7.00am you must push the button on the controller at 7.00am to start the lighting cycle. This setting will then be saved.

STEP 8 - Protein Skimmer Operation

  1. Ensure the protein skimmer collection cup and lid are securely and correctly positioned. Failure to do so could result in leaks.
  2. Carefully turn the air inlet adjustment valve (Image 01) on the protein skimmer in an anti-clockwise direction until the micro-bubbles can be seen to just enter the base of the collection cup cone (Image 01a).
  3. The water outlet adjustment knob can also be used to lower the water level (turning clockwise) or to raise the water level (turning anti-clockwise) see image 2a. 
  4. With any adjustments made, ensure that the water level in the skimmer body (Image 3) is closely monitored to ensure the collection cup is not flooded. Failure to do so could result in water overflowing onto the floor.

TIPS & NOTES

  • With any adjustments made, ensure that the water level in the main protein skimmer body is closely monitored to ensure the collection cup is not flooded. 
    CAUTION: Failure to do so could result in water overflowing onto the floor.
  • BE PATIENT! When any adjustments are made to the air inlet adjustment valve on the protein skimmer, it will take a few moments for the micro-bubbles and water level within the protein skimmer to settle and become stable. It is perfectly normal for the protein skimmer to take a few days to become established and stable.
  • VARIABLES such as introducing new micro corals or micro invertebrates into the tank, frequent feeding, adding supplements or medications, fluctuations in water quality, water changes and maintenance may temporarily alter the performance of the protein skimmer.

Allow the protein skimmer to establish itself and if required make further adjustments to the air inlet adjustment valve and/or to the water outlet adjustment knob to control the air and water level within the main skimmer body. 

USEFUL TIP: The protein skimmer can also be moved up or down (Image 4), inside the protein skimmer chamber to further enable the optimum water level inside the protein skimmer body to be achieved. 

NOTE: With any adjustments made, ensure that the water level in the main protein skimmer body is closely monitored to ensure the collection cup is not flooded. 

CAUTION: Failure to do so could result in water overflowing onto the floor.

NOTE:  It is perfectly normally for the protein protein skimmer to take a few days to become established and stable.

Under normal operating circumstances, due to the size of the First Wave tank, there will generally be very little organic matter or detritus to be removed by the skimmer and filtration system. Therefore the protein skimmer may not always be producing a foam and skimming. This is perfectly normal. As long as the micro-bubbles and water level within the protein skimmer are correct, the protein skimmer will start skimming as soon as organic matter or detritus build up in the First Wave tank.

NOTE: Variables such as introducing new micro corals or micro invertebrates into the tank, frequent feeding, adding supplements or medications, fluctuations in water quality, water changes and maintenance may temporarily alter the performance of the protein skimmer.

STEP 9 - The nitrogen cycle

To understand what is required to keep a healthy aquarium, you need to understand the nitrogen cycle, where beneficial nitrifying bacteria start building up in your First Wave tank, breaking down harmful ammonia (NH₃), into nitrite (NO₂) and then nitrate (NO₃).

When you set up your First Wave tank, it won’t yet have enough helpful bacteria to handle waste from your fish and other livestock. 

This means harmful substances like ammonia (NH₃) and nitrites (NO₂) can build up quickly, which can be dangerous for marine life.

To avoid this, you need to "cycle" your tank. Cycling an aquarium is the process of allowing the tank to mature before adding livestock, so it becomes a healthy and stable environment for them. This process can take anywhere from a few days to several weeks and lets beneficial bacteria grow, which help break down waste and keep the water safe.

Safe levels to aim for

Over time, good bacteria grow in the filter and substrate, naturally converting ammonia (NH3) into less harmful substances nitrite (NO2) and then nitrate (NO3). If this cycle isn’t established, aquarium inhabitants can get sick or even die from toxic water conditions.
Being patient during this process ensures a safe and healthy home for your fish and corals!

How to Cycle Your Tank
There are products available that can speed up the cycling process by adding nitrifying bacteria to your tank. Speak to your LFS (local fish shop) for recommendations if needed.
During cycling, it’s important to test your water daily for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. This helps you track the progress and know when it’s safe to add livestock.

What to Expect

  • After about 7–10 days, you should notice ammonia levels rising (a "spike").
  • Next, nitrite levels will spike, followed by nitrate levels.
  • Once ammonia and nitrites drop back to zero and nitrates are at a safe level, the cycle is complete, and your tank is ready.

Testing Your Water
Testing is an essential part of tank maintenance. It helps you understand what’s happening in your tank and alerts to any potential issues. While some local fish shops can test your water for you, it’s a good idea to have your own test kits at home—they’re affordable and easy to use.
Once the cycling process is complete, you should test your water at least once a week to keep everything in balance and ensure a healthy environment for your marine life.

Here are the ideal water parameters for a beginner-friendly marine setup

STEP 10 - Water chemistry

GENERAL HUSBANDRY

  • Water Temperature
    Marine organisms are sensitive to temperature fluctuations. 
    The optimum water temperature for a marine aquarium is 24°C to 26°C (75°F to 79°F). Use a reliable aquarium heater to maintain this range and place a thermometer in the tank to monitor temperature daily.
    Avoid placing the tank near windows or heat sources, which can cause temperature fluctuations (see page 5-6). 
  • Water Parameters
    Marine aquariums require stable water conditions.

TIPS & NOTES

  • Use a suitable alkalinity buffer to stabilize pH between water changes. 
  • Note that Phosphate (PO₄) and Nitrate (NO₃) can contribute to increased algae growth, so monitor and manage them through regular partial water changes.
  • Regularly perform partial water changes to keep water parameters in check.

Top Tips for choosing test kits:

  1. Go for liquid test kits—they’re the most accurate and provide the best value for money with plenty of tests in each kit.
  2. Keep some remedies on hand, like phosphate remover if levels get too high, or calcium supplements to maintain proper levels.
  3. Regular testing will help you stay on top of your tank’s water quality, making it easier to provide the perfect environment for your marine life to flourish!

STEP 11 - Testing your water

Why Test Kits Are Essential for Your Aquarium


Test kits are one of the most important tools for keeping your tank healthy. Even if your water looks perfectly clear, it could still be harmful to your marine life. A test kit helps you check water quality so you can act quickly if something isn’t right.

What to Test For:

  • Fish-Only Tank: Test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH.
  • Fish-Only with Live Rock: In addition to the above, test for phosphate, as high phosphate levels can lead to slimy algae.
  • Reef Tank: You’ll need to test for everything listed above, plus calcium, magnesium, and alkalinity. These extra parameters are crucial for keeping corals healthy and thriving.


IMPORTANT : Please consult your LFS for advice on the specific water parameters, salinity and temperature of your chosen livestock species.

IMPORTANT

The First Wave tank is designed for smaller-scale marine life and, due to its size, is not suitable for all ornamental aquarium fish. For guidance, please refer to the Reccomended Species on the main page.

Please take the time to thoroughly research their specific habitat needs of fish, invetebrate and corals you are planning to add to your First Wave, including temperature and water parameters. Ensure the right conditions before introducing them will help keep your tank thriving and your marine life healthy.

*If you’re ever unsure, your LFS will be happy to provide advice and support.

STEP 12 - Adding Livestock

Once you have ensured that the appropriate water conditions for your chosen fish, invertebrate and/or corals are met, and the water parameters are stable, including salinity, temperature and pH general husbandry, it's time to add your First Wave inabitants!
In marine aquariums it is important to acclimatise fish separately from corals and invertebrates as the sea water that they are delivered in is likely to have different salinity and other values. Also, some fish water may also contain copper which is highly toxic to invertebrates
Invertebrates are more sensitive to salinity fluctuations and osmotic shock can cause them to implode if they are acclimated too quickly. 

DO & DON'T

  • DON'T expose marine livestock to air.
  • DON'T overstock the tank*.
  • DO dim the light! Bright light will cause severe stress to the livestock. Turn off your aquarium lights and dim the lights in the room where your new livestock is to be acclimated before starting acclimation.
  • DO take your time. Many marine creatures are unable to cope with rapid changes in water parameters so make sure you acclimate SLOWLY.


Temperature fluctuations in a marine system are the main cause of white spot on fish, and bleaching in corals. Tropic Marin Pro-Tect can be used when acclimating as it helps to increase immunity and reduce stress.
Please ensure you make a note of how much water your acclimation bucket or container holds before starting acclimation so you can calculate the correct amount of Pro-Tect you need to add later.  Larger bottles of Pro-Tect are available from your LFS.

Acclimation

Marine creatures, are unable to cope with rapid changes in water parameters so acclimating them is an important procedure.
Please follow these steps carefully and make sure you acclimate SLOWLY.

  1. Place the sealed bag containing your marine livestock into your First Wave tank.
  2. Float the bag in your tank for 15 minutes allowing the temperature of the water in the bag to match the temperature of the water in your First Wave tank.
  3. After 15 minutes, take the bag out of your tank, cut the top off and carefully discard approximately 50% of the water in the bag. Make sure you don’t pour out your livestock!
  4. Place the now opened bag back in the First Wave tank, now increase the water volume in the bag by 25% using only water from your tank.
  5. Wait 10 minutes and repeat step 3 so that the bag is now full again.
  6. Carefully discard 50% of the water in the bag and repeat steps 3-4. Wait 10 minutes.
  7. Remove the bag from the First Wave tank, carefully discard as much water as possible from the bag while ensuring your marine livestock remains submerged in the bag.
  8. Carefully release the marine livestock into your First Wave tank.


Keep a close watch on your fish and corals while they settle in during acclimation.

USEFUL TIP  - Drip Acclimation Method

Drip Acclimation Kit – A simple yet professional solution for gently acclimating new livestock to your aquarium’s water parameters.

  • Siphon Starter & Flow Indicator – Quickly starts the siphon while providing a clear visual of water flow.
  • Rigid Connecting Pipe – Securely fits over the aquarium edge for easy setup.
  • Flexible Tubing & Suction Cup Clip – Ensures a stable connection.
  • Water Control Valve – One-handed operation for precise flow adjustment.
  • 10ml Tropic Marin PRO-TECT – Boosts immunity, reduces stress, and stabilises water chemistry.

Maintenance       

TIPS & NOTES

We highly recommend that you purchase a good marine keeping reference book to gain further knowledge on how to keep your marine livestock in optimum condition and to ensure an enjoyable and successful marine-keeping experience.
A full range of spares and accessories is available to complement the First Wave tank. Please see your LFS - TMC stockist for further information or visit:
tropicalmarinecentre.com

  1. To operate efficiently, the water return pump, the protein skimmer and the heater must be operated 24 hours a day.
  2. For optimum results we recommend that the LED lighting system is operated for up to 10 hours per day.
  3. Regularly check to make sure all connections are tightly secured.
  4. Check regularly that the protein skimmer is functioning properly and the micro-bubbles and water level within the protein skimmer are correct. 
  5. When the collection cup is full, ensure all waste material is removed and the collection cup is cleaned.
  6. Periodically remove the collection cup and clean any organic build up or salt and/or calcium deposits from the collection cup.
  7. Ensure the water outlet on the protein skimmer is clean and free of blockages. 
    USEFUL TIP: Any blockages or detritus in the main protein skimmer body should be removed by simply rinsing the protein skimmer with warm water under a running tap.
  8. When carrying out a water change, rinse out the filter sponges/filter pad in the water removed from the tank (NEVER use tap water). Periodically replace the filter sponges and filter pad 
    NOTE: Avoid rinsing or replacing all sponges and filter pad at the same time to ensure minimal loss of essential bacteria.
  9. Clean the water return pump and protein skimmer pump regularly to ensure they do not become clogged with debris or detritus and function correctly (see next page).
  10. Ensure that the water inlets, water outlet, water outlet tubing and multi-directional water outlet are clean and free of blockages.
  11. Regularly clean the inside and outside of the First Wave tank.

DAILY

  • Feed fish and corals appropriately (avoid overfeeding).
  • Using a net, remove any excess food or other debris as needed
  • Check water temperature (ensure it stays within the recommended range for your livestock).
  • Check water level and top up evaporated water with RODI (Reverse Osmosis Deionized) water to maintain correct salinity.
  • Check all equipment (protein skimmer, return pump, heater etc) to ensure all are functioning correctly
  • Empty the protein skimmer cup
  • Observe fish and corals for signs of stress, disease, or unusual behavior.

WEEKLY

  • Check salinity level
  • Test water parameters (salinity, pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and phosphate).
  • Clean algae from glass and decor using an aquarium-safe algae magnet and/or soft soft brush
  • Clean the outside of the aquarium using a soft cloth
  • Empty and clean the protein skimmer cup  by rinsing with tap water and wiping clean with hands or a soft cloth
  • Perform a 10% water change using properly mixed and aerated saltwater. Or carry out a  20% water change every two weeks
  • Carefully siphon the substrate to remove any uneaten food, debris or detritus
  • Check and clean filter media (rinse in removed tank water if necessary, to preserve beneficial bacteria).
  • Wipe down lid and make sure feeding port and air vent areas are clean
  • Check and calibrate refractometer or hydrometer to ensure accurate salinity readings.
  • Trim and maintain corals if they are overgrowing.

MONTHLY

  • Deep clean the return pump and skimmer pump, rinse all parts with fresh water and using a soft brush to remove any debris/detritus inside, then re-assemble
  • Check the return pump impeller and protein skimmer pump impeller for signs of degradation and replace as necessary. 
    Please Note: The impellers are not covered under the guarantee
  • Inspect all equipment for wear and tear, and replace parts if necessary.
  • Replace filter media if needed (but don't replace all at once)
  • Check and clean the LED light to remove salt creep or dust.

Glossary

Cycling 
Over time, good bacteria grow in the filter and substrate, naturally converting ammonia (NH3) into less harmful substances nitrite (NO2) and then nitrate (NO3). If this cycle isn’t established, aquarium inhabitants can get sick or even die from toxic water conditions.
Being patient during this process ensures a safe and healthy home for your fish and corals!

Hydrometer or refractometer
A saltwater hydrometer is a tool used to measure the specific gravity (SG) or salinity of saltwater. It helps ensure proper salt concentrations, which is crucial for applications like marine aquariums, oceanographic research, and aquaculture.

How It Works
The hydrometer floats in water, and its reading depends on the density of the liquid.
Higher salinity = Higher density = Higher floatation
The spe cific gravity of natural seawater is typically around 1.025 at 25°C (77°F).
Types of Saltwater Hydrometers:

  • Floating Hydrometer - A glass or plastic tube that floats at different levels based on water density.
  • Swing Arm Hydrometer - A plastic device with a pivoting arm that indicates the salinity level.
  • Refractometer (Alternative to Hydrometer) - Uses light refraction for more precise salinity measurement.

LFS
LFS is an acronym for your Local Fish Store

Protein Skimmer
A protein skimmer is a device used in reef aquariums to remove waste, excess nutrients, and organic compounds from the water. It works by creating micro bubbles that attract and trap waste, forming a foam that is collected and removed, helping to keep the water clean and healthy for marine life.

Residual Current Device (RCD)
A Residual Current Device (RCD) is a safety device designed to prevent electric shocks and reduce the risk of electrical fires by quickly cutting off power if it detects a leakage of current to the ground.

Water Chemistry
Water chemistry in reef aquariums refers to the balance of key parameters such as pH, salinity, alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, and nutrient levels (like nitrates and phosphates). Maintaining stable water chemistry is essential for the health of corals and marine life, ensuring a thriving and stable ecosystem.